[RESTAURANT REVIEW] Trois Familia’s Flavorful Fusion

Trois Familia

When French chef Ludo Lefebvre first started doing innovative pop-ups around town and then opened the tasting menu-focused Trois Mec and its little sister Petit Trois, he probably wasn’t thinking Mexican-French fusion.

But the perpetually forward-thinking Lefebvre doesn’t slow down for long, and so when the former Alegria location in a Silver Lake mini-mall came up for lease, he decided to honor the space’s roots in his own European way, with help from partners Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook of Animal.

Trois Familia serves only breakfast, brunch and lunch in a much more casual atmosphere than Lefebvre’s other restaurants, with colorfully painted walls, picnic table seating and no reservations.

These are Mexican dishes filtered through Lefebvre’s lens of French technique, and they’re unlikely to be like any you’ve seen before.

A beet “tartare” tostada is only nominally Mexican, though it rests on a perfectly crunchy and tender tortilla round and is topped with a delicate avocado crema that could be the snooty cousin to guacamole.

If there’s a signature dish, it’s the hash brown chilaquiles. Crispy potatoes stand in for the traditional tortilla chips, while “salsa macho” gives the dish an acid jolt. There’s very little resemblance to the dish it’s named for, but it has its own terrific flavor.

The only issue is that you’ll really want two, and at $9.95 a pop, you’ve spent $20 for two eggs—before even ordering the $5 cup of Heart coffee.

I’ve never made it as far as the churro French toast, because as much as I love Salt & Straw ice cream, who needs it for breakfast?

Fans of homey desserts will go wild for the tres leches birthday cake. There’s no alcohol, but there are a few decadent drinks like the house-made horchata and the Nutella malted “iced hot chocolate.”

Trois Familia 

3510 Sunset Boulevard 

323-725-7800

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